Used Boats: Did You Get a Deal, Or Get Deal Less?

It’s an all-too-familiar story, one we hear of and see a lot here at our outboard repair business, Tiger Outboards. Customers bring us their used boats all the time. Typically, on the maiden voyage, it won’t run well; it leaks, the fuel tank has water in it, the engine won’t idle or accelerate, and on and on.

Often the excitement and anticipation of getting out on the water cause us to make quick decisions without enough information. 

In this article, we’ll discuss several vital areas that should be thoroughly investigated before laying down your cash. Hopefully, you can avoid post-purchase aggravation and expensive repairs. 

Take a Boat Ride

Nothing can take the place of an actual boat ride. This allows you to see how the boat sits at rest, if water leaks in, how the controls and accessories work, and of course, how the engine runs. Take careful note of how the engine starts, cold and warm. It should start with a minimum of fiddling or choking/priming and stay running at a smooth idle without stalling, especially when put in gear. 

It should accelerate smoothly from idle to full throttle and back to idle again without stalling. It should not smoke excessively unless, of course, it’s a two-stroke, running on a colder day or still morning/evening. Do some research and find out top-end RPM; as a general guideline, most outboards run in the 5000-6000 RPM range. If it’s falling short or way over, it’s a problem (could be a bad tachometer, wrong propeller, or worse: internal damage). 

Steering should be snag-free; if it’s mechanical cable, it should not hitch or bind, and you should be able to steer the engine lock-to-lock with minimal effort. If hard to steer, it could need a new cable or complete replacement. With hydraulic steering, look for leaks and erratic, jumpy movements. If it’s not smooth and leak-free, it’s going to need service. 

Check the Engine

Don’t settle for an on-land demonstration with the flush attachment. While that’ll confirm that it starts and runs, it won’t reveal internal engine damage; only a compression check with a good compression gauge can. It also won’t reveal dirty carburetors or fuel injectors or a lower unit that won’t shift or stay in gear. 

Check for corrosion and rust around the steering arm, stern brackets, and power trim unit. A rusty, flaking steering arm is a big safety concern. Rotate the propeller in neutral and listen for grinding or scraping. Watch as it rotates to see if the shaft is bent. Look for damaged propeller blades. Check the paint, especially on the cowling and midsection, but also on the gearcase. A fading, flaking, mildewy finish is a good indicator that the engine was treated carelessly. 

Remove the cowl and look for fuel leaks, especially around the front of the engine where the carburetors or fuel injectors usually are. Take a minute and obtain a fuel sample; if the fuel is cloudy with water and/or has debris in it, you’ll be in for an expensive fuel tank and engine fuel system cleaning. 

The Trailer

Check for rust! It may reveal a frame about to fail. The springs, axle, coupler, bunks or rollers, winch and strap and safety chains should all work properly and be in good condition. Of course, check the tires; you can’t tow it home on tires that are about to fail. They should be properly inflated to the maximum recommended pressure, don’t forget. That goes without saying for the lights, of course. 

Don’t forget to check the hubs for recent lubing—if needed, add grease before you move the rig or you may be sorry. 

Paperwork

You can’t legally register and use your new boat and trailer without the proper paperwork. In most states, this means a legal title and bill of sale for the boat and trailer (some states even require a title for the outboard!). 

You can potentially go through weeks and months of legal hassles without these documents, so make sure the seller can produce them — up front before you even look over the rig. There’s no sense getting excited about the boat if you can’t legally transfer ownership. 

Even a “free” boat can end up costing thousands just to make it water ready. If possible, watch out for “boat flippers” — these folks buy junk boats, do the bare minimum to get them running and sell them for top dollar to unsuspecting buyers. Remember, though, a used boat usually means continuing expenses, even if well maintained. The old acronym “B.O.A.T” (Break Out Another Thousand) might ring true if you don’t inspect the rig with a careful eye—or a mechanic—before buying.

By: John Tiger