Cruising Maine's Penobscot Bay

You do not have to have a megayacht
to enjoy cruising Maine’s Penobscot Bay, which is one of the truly great cruising
grounds in the world. In fact, you can do it with deckboat or center console because
the waters are protected in large measure. The perimeter of the bay is dotted with
public launching ramps for trailer boaters and there are marinas with open slips
and moorings in every town and village at affordable prices. Then there are the
thousands of spots to anchor for the night where you will only be bothered by loons
and occasional passing lobster boat (many of whom will be glad to sell you a few
lobsters). The bay is protected to a great degree from the prevailing southwesterly
breeze, which is a God’s send as it keeps the bugs away. In the summer the air temperature
is darn near perfect during the day (sweaters at night) and the water is bracing.





Penobscot Bay


Distances are not great in this wonderful
bay. For example, it is only about 10 to 12 miles from Belfast to Castine, which
you can find in the upper center part of the map.




The coast of Maine is one of the 10 greatest cruising grounds in the world. And happily it can be reached, most of the way, by Interstate highway, for people trailering
their boats or by short hops up the east coast by larger vessels. We heartily recommend
cruising there because there is simply nothing like in on the East Coast of America.
Indeed, many Europeans come each year to cruise there.



The jewel of the Maine coast is Penobscot Bay, which is roughly in the middle of
the coast, and offers a variety of sights and cruising all within easy reach.


Planning Your Trip



For people living outside of the area, basically there are three ways to cruise
Maine: 1) Trailer your boat there, 2) Power your boat up the East Coast, or, 3)
Charter a boat that is already there.


Chartering in Maine



Last summer, two of the BoatTEST.com staffers chartered in Maine (one in August
and one the end of September) and we will fill you in on that at another time. Suffice
it to say that chartering a boat already in Maine is probably the most pleasant
and easiest way to cruise there, and we recommend it. Unfortunately, there are not
many powerboats available there for charter so if you would like to go that route,
you’d better call
today, as you are already six months late.



We were pleased with both the Grand Banks 36 we chartered and the service provided
by Buck’s Harbor Marine & Charters. Buck’s Harbor is centrally located in the
Penobscot Bay cruising area along the north coast of Eggemoggin Reach. This charter
company has four powerboats and five sailboats for charter the last time we checked.
The powerboats are 32’ and 36’ Grand Banks and a lobster boat. All go about 8 knots
which is a perfect speed to cruise the bay. 207-326-8839 or e-mail at [email protected]. Tell the folks at Buck’s Harbor
that you read about them at BoatTEST.com and we’re sure they will do their best
to accommodate you.





Lobster Boats


Maine lobster boats are the predominate
powerboat class along the Maine coast. Most recreational boats are sailboats and
for some unknown reason few powerboats cruise there. This picture was taken in the
inner harbor at Blue Hill.


Two if By Sea



The second way of getting there for people who have their own boat, is on its own
bottom. That is, of course, the slowest way of getting to Maine, and the cruise
up will be a large part of the adventure. If you are short of time, then our recommendation
is to plan several weekends for moving your boat up to Penobscot Bay, then spend 10 days to two weeks cruising there. Either leave the boat there for the winter
(storage is cheaper there than most any place else on the East Coast) and enjoy
a second summer cruising other places in Maine, or ferry your boat back the way
you came, bearing in mind you will now be driving into the prevailing wind.





Buck's Harbor

View from Buck’s Harbor looking south
across Eggemoggin Reach to Deer Island.


On the Road Again



The third and least expensive way is to trailer your boat to Maine. If you have
a pocket cruiser you will be able to use one place as a starting and ending point
and be on the boat the whole cruise. If you have a boat that is really only a day boat, then we would recommend that you pick three or four towns to make your headquarters
spotted around the bay. Take day trips out and have lunch aboard and explore ashore
on remote islands where you will be the only ones walking around. There are precious few places on earth one can do that these days.



Be advised that there are not many hotels and motels around Penobscot Bay, and many
of the ones that are there are pricy due to their short season. Your best bet may
be the numerous B&Bs that dot the coast. Finding appropriate lodging near a
launch ramp will be you first objective.



We are going to suggest that you consider four towns as a base of operation as they
are each central to a nice cruising area, each have a launch ramp, lodging and restaurants
nearby. These towns are: Camden, Belfast, Castine, and Stonington. For detailed
information on the marinas around Penobscot Bay, use maineharbors.com as your starting
point. (Click Here).


Places to See




eggemoggin_reach

Satellite view of Eggemoggin
Reach. A bridge across the reach to Deer Island will take you to Stonington which
is at the south end of the island. Buck’s Harbor is in the upper left hand area,
and the glorious Wooden
Boat magazine campus and school is just to the right of
the “A” balloon.




scenic_maine

This is a typical scene
in Maine, hills in the background and sailboats on moorings. This picture was taken
the end of September and you can see that the trees are just beginning to turn.





Stonginton

Stonington is the epicenter
of lobster boats in Maine. We
counted over 55 on moorings the last time we were
there. The islands in the middle of the picture are called Merchants Row and they
contain hundreds of idyllic anchorages.





Green Island

Here is a lovely spot
to anchor for lunch on the east side of Green Island in the Merchant Row group.





Stongington2

Stonington is famous for
its lobster boat races during a summer festival. Loberstermen (and a few women)
work nearly year round in all weather.





Camden

During the high season
Camden, Maine’s harbor is probably the most popular in Maine with dozens of boats
moored and anchored in the outer harbor.





Camden2

View of Camden’s inner
harbor from a lovely resting spot at the head of the harbor.


Few Powerboats Go There



One of the ironic things about cruising Maine is how few cruising powerboats one
sees there. Most cruising boats are sailboats, owned by folks who have sailed all
the way Downeast from places such Long Island Sound. Given what a slow and uncomfortable
mode of travel sailboats are, it is amazing that more powerboaters don’t make the
trip.





Upper Penobscot Bay

The upper part of Penobscot
Bay can be seen in this satellite view. Belfast is at left (where you see route
“3” on a bridge) and the historical town of Castine is at right, just about 10 miles
away.





Castine

Castine’s waterfront is
home to the Maine Maritime Academy. Their training vessels can be seen at the right.
Castine was the site of the most severe U.S. Naval disaster of the revolutionary
war.



On our numerous summer trips up to Maine we have rarely encountered rough water
and even last September as a hurricane churned its way toward Nova Scotia offshore,
we got little more than some mild rain and overcast skies. Usually September is
sunny and balmy, one of the best-kept secrets of Maine cruising.



Yes, there is sometimes fog in Maine, but these days with chartplotters navigating
Maine even in the fog is not difficult if one goes slowly and is careful. In any
case, fog usually only lasts a couple of days.



We hope this little cruising guide has captured your interest for going to a new
cruising ground. If you would like to tell us about your favorite cruising area,
we’d love to hear about it and would be glad to share it with our readers on these
pages…and send us your pictures, too! Just send them to: [email protected].